Pitti, here the new men fashion trends

First day of Pitti Immagine Uomo, the fashion trad show at the Fortezza da Basso, Florence, Italy.

Classic style

In classic style, man for next fall/winter is impeccable even at zero degrees: he is sensitive to the embrace of precious yarns and essential textures, his wardrobe is filled with exquisitely crafted details and heritage inspiration. Tailored jackets and coats that defy the severe climate without losing their elegance, colored by that touch of wear that makes tradition even with technical inserts or warm woolen and fustian linings.

The woolen jacket is the undisputed protagonist of the men’s wardrobe. Lighter than ever, but warm. Deconstructed yet formal: this is the new jacket for fall-winter 2012-13. Worn with the ease of a sweater without abandoning the tailored cut, it takes over the body and hides nothing.

The materials reproduce traditional English patterns in a contemporary key and the colors are inspired by the world of knitwear. Unhemmed wool jersey fabrics with Shetland-style patterns; piece-dyed jackets cotton and wool, in solids or herringbones with details like aged silver buttons. The passe-partout of style is the checked double wool jacket: clean-fit, horn buttons, wool panel linings, contrasting trims.

A vintage look combined with contemporary wearability for classics like Loden and duffel coats revisited in wool jersey, with Madras checks and contrasting linings. Crafted, handmade, attention to detail is the new diktat. “Savoir faire” is the answer for anyone seeking a substantial meaning for exclusivity.

Sportswear style

Sportswear styles emphasize a return to technical mountain wear, combining the characteristics of the fabrics with the functional items that can be put to extra-urban uses. Frost-proof clothing designed to tackle the most extreme expressions of nature in places where the thermometer plunges mercilessly below zero.

Signpost colors, tapered shapes – perfect for the city as well – cutting edge fabrics like ripstop and cotton/nylon, heat-welded seams, very warm but lightweight padding. The outdoor roots are informed by the truest Anglo-American tradition and the sport vein that characterizes them often makes clear references to military styles. On the feet, brash, fur-trimmed boots.

Jeans, the basic component of the informal wardrobe, are evolving nonstop: slim-fit or regular, hand finished with sophisticated treatments and mending, made of organic cotton, limited editions, total grey, in a thousand weights according to the season, antistatic, breathing, shielding…but the look is always and definitely vintage. The world of sneakers go to ultra-flat, worn look, hand-finished shoes.

Big and small bags for weekend breaks or days out of the office: satchels, messenger bags, underarm document cases, briefcases and tote bags. Essential functions, leather inserts and elegant stitching to create the refinement of a made to order item. Smart lines and rationally designed inside spaces for briefcases, computer bags, iPad holders.

Avant-guarde style

The avant-garde man’s wardrobe for next winter is influenced by the increasingly daring games played between distant cultures and worlds. The result is crossover collections where tailoring naturally encounters an inclination for sport, and fashion and utility are key words.

The metro man’s total look cannot be complete without a jersey jacket, leather jogging pants, and a selection of double faced items. , Tartans, fine Scottish wools, waxed and coated fabrics work together with quality leather and handcrafting. The down jackets have leather inserts, the natural leather jackets are enriched with a sophisticated blend of knits, jerseys, shearling quilting and metal details.

The new interpretation of formal wear has a nostalgically British accent where traditional fabrics are reworked with a knowing, up-to-date twist. Jerseys look like sweatshirts, sweatshirts are edged like fine woolens. Solid and multi-colored jacquards that look like Romanian couching come into their own with new shapes.

The must-have accessory is the scarf. The new scarves are soft and light, flowing and big. The fine yarns are hand-knitted or woven by skilled hands on ancient looms. Or else they follow the virtuous path of environmental sustainability using vegetable dyes and natural colors on extremely fine quality yarns to care for the environment.