Casentino Cloth Faces Extinction as Last Factory Shuts Down

The story of Casentino cloth, the iconic orange wool with its distinctive curled surface, once worn by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, may be coming to an end. The Manifattura del Casentino in Soci, near Bibbiena, the only factory in the world still producing the original fabric, has been placed into liquidation. The last 13 workers have already been laid off, and the historic machinery, including the “arricciatrice” used to create the fabric’s characteristic texture, could be dismantled by December if no buyer steps in.

For the small town of Soci, it is the loss of its last factory and a symbol of centuries-old craftsmanship. Founded in the 19th century, the Manifattura del Casentino kept alive a tradition dating back to the Renaissance, when the rough woolen cloth was made for monks’ habits and coachmen’s coats before becoming a fashion statement loved by designers and aristocrats alike.

The company’s collapse reflects the broader crisis of Italy’s textile sector. After surviving the 2022 bankruptcy of the previous ownership, the factory struggled with rising energy costs, disruptions in raw material supply due to global tensions, and the loss of key export markets such as Russia. With revenues dropping to a fraction of previous years and electricity eventually cut off for unpaid bills, liquidation became inevitable.

The economic shock is reverberating through the Casentino valley. Local suppliers and designers warn that the disappearance of the Manifattura could destroy an entire supply chain. The Tessilnova mill in nearby Stia, which supplied unfinished fabrics for the final refining process, now finds its own production at risk. The unique curling technique that gives the fabric its soul can only be achieved with the specialized machines and know-how that existed in Soci.

Other local firms, such as Tacs — a brand known internationally and with a boutique in Florence — are looking for alternatives within Tuscany, though they admit the Casentino valley’s conditions cannot be replicated elsewhere.

The loss goes far beyond economics. The orange and green coats once favored by kings, intellectuals and film icons embodied the resilient elegance of Tuscany: a blend of utility, beauty and identity. If no solution is found in the coming weeks, the world will lose not only a product but a piece of living heritage — a fabric that, for six centuries, has woven together the history and landscape of the Casentino valley.

❤️ Support Florence Daily News

If you liked this article, please consider supporting Florence Daily News.

We are an independent news site, free from paywalls and intrusive ads, committed to providing clear and reliable reporting on Florence and Tuscany for everyone.

Your support — whether a one-time gift or a regular contribution — helps us stay independent and keep telling the stories that matter.

Donate securely via Stripe below.