Greeted by the smell of freshly brewed espresso and subtle echoing of church bells, a morning walk through the Oltrarno offers a peaceful escape from the tourist-laden streets of downtown Florence. With a longstanding tradition of artistry and service, the people of the Oltrarno strive to preserve a more authentic Italian experience. Full of life and rich history, the community prides itself on cultivating a sense of belonging and calm, a space away from the fast-paced lifestyle across the river. Just a fifteen-minute walk from the Duomo, the Oltrarno district is a place to experience the true beauty and abundance of Italy.
The Oltrarno, meaning “beyond the Arno,” is rooted in tradition; originally a working-class neighborhood full of craftsmen and local families, the area is now home to some of the city’s most historic landmarks, such as the Pitti Palace, once home to the Medici family, and Santa Maria del Carmine, known for the Brancacci Chapel. Small, family-run shops line the historic streets, welcoming tourists and locals alike. From the lively neighborhood of Santo Spirito to Piazza Michelangelo, the heart of the Oltrarno is found in the artisan studios and local cafés that line its cobblestone streets.
After growing up in the Oltrarno, Lucilla Vecchiarno, a local artisan, now runs her father’s painting studio. Reflecting on how the neighborhood has evolved over time, she explains, “It has changed a lot. With the tourism…yeah I think in the last ten years it has changed a lot.” Still, Lucilla takes pride in continuing the legacy of the neighborhood’s creative tradition.
Walking through the streets of the Oltrarno, you can feel the importance of slowing down and noticing the city’s quieter beauty, a palpable contrast to the rushed feel of downtown. “It’s still the most authentic area of the city because of the small shops and artisans,” Lucilla said. “That’s what makes the difference.”
Amidst this growing pressure to fight against the pervasive, almost inevitable, tourism, speaking with local artisans offers a glimpse into the future of the area and a sense of hope for maintaining that identity. Lavinia Rosetti, alongside her coworker, wants to stay in the district for its artistic environment. The collective emphasis on artistry cultivates a space for growth and a sentiment of commitment. While much of the clientele has changed due to tourism, some locals remain loyal.
The challenge of keeping small artisan businesses alive, amid Airbnbs and fast-moving tourism, forces shop owners to stay steadfast in their commitment to tradition and community. “Here, we are trying to resist that,” Rosetti said, referring to the influx of mass tourism. “As artisans, it is not easy at all…but people who come here are looking for something more authentic.” After growing up in Tuscany, Lavinia moved to the area to study in a jewelry academy, later deciding to open their business here. Despite growing up elsewhere, working at the store for five years has allowed her to witness the evolution of the surrounding community and culture, shifting more to accommodate tourists.
Her coworker, Maria Walker, says, “like everywhere in this area of Florence…before, it was prominent with artisans and people looking from Florence or maybe people that moved from other places but they came here to live.” She says, people “stay for a short time…so it’s a little bit different.”
Despite growing tourism and somewhat inevitable shifts in the city’s culture, the spirit of the Oltrarno remains in its people and their passion for their craft. Young artisans, like Lucilla and Lavinia and her team, are working to blend tradition with innovation to keep alive the district’s unique culture and encourage that same community far into Oltrarno’s future.
This article was produced as part of a journalism collaboration with Georgetown University’s study abroad program in Florence.
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