Pitti Uomo Opens in Florence as Italian Menswear Faces a Challenging Market

Pitti Uomo returns to Florence on 16 June 2026, bringing together more than 740 brands from over 30 countries for the 110th edition of the international menswear trade show at the Fortezza da Basso.

According to organiser Pitti Immagine, 44% of participating brands come from outside Italy, confirming the event’s role as one of the most important international meetings for the menswear industry.

This year’s theme, The Pool, will be reflected in a central installation created by Philéo Landowski and designed by Pascal Hachem. The fair’s five traditional sections, ranging from classic menswear to outdoor apparel, have been confirmed, with a new area dedicated to niche and research-based fragrances.

International guests and special events

The programme includes a strong international line-up of designers and brands.

Among the highlights are South Korean designer Jiyong Kim and his label JiyongKim, Copenhagen-based brand Sunflower, and Japanese label DSM Kei Ninomiya, linked to the Dover Street Market retail group.

On Thursday evening, Irish designer Simone Rocha will stage her first dedicated menswear runway show at Florence’s Teatro della Pergola. The London-based designer is known for collections that draw on themes connected to Ireland, Hong Kong, family history and contemporary art.

British designer William Palmer, winner of the I Immagine Award, will also present his latest collection during the event.

Several country-focused areas dedicated to Korean, Japanese, Chinese, French and Spanish brands are returning to the fair.

New brands and anniversary celebrations

Among the newcomers is swimwear brand Sundek, appearing at Pitti Uomo for the first time since its acquisition by Turin-based BasicNet. The company will showcase its Original collection centred on the Rainbow boardshort.

Other initiatives include a presentation celebrating the history of Emilio Pucci, based on a new book by Idanna Pucci and Terence Ward, while footwear brand Sebago will mark its 80th anniversary with a boat-themed event on the Arno River.

Fashion schools will also play a prominent role. Polimoda is holding its annual graduate fashion show, while students from IED Florence and Accademia Italiana are presenting installations and discussions focused on design and fashion culture.

Italian menswear remains under pressure

The opening of Pitti Uomo comes as new figures from Confindustria Moda show that Italy’s menswear industry continued to struggle during 2025.

Sector turnover fell by 2.2% to around €11.2 billion. Leather apparel was the only segment to record growth, increasing by 4.9%, while shirts, knitwear, ties and outerwear all registered declines.

Exports also weakened, falling by 1.7% to approximately €8.7 billion. Sales within the European Union grew by 3%, but this was offset by a 5.7% decline in exports to non-EU markets.

Imports rose by 1.8% to around €5.4 billion, with suppliers outside Europe increasing their share of the Italian market.

Tuscany’s fashion crisis shows no sign of easing

At the regional level, CNA Federmoda Toscana says the difficulties facing the sector have become increasingly structural.

According to data compiled by the association, Tuscany lost 2,313 fashion businesses between 2022 and 2025, part of a nationwide decline of around 12,000 companies. The organisation estimates that about 2,400 jobs were lost in the region during the same period.

Tuscany currently has more than 17,500 fashion companies and around 105,000 workers employed across the sector. Fashion exports from the region reached €12 billion in 2025, representing about 20% of Italy’s total fashion exports.

However, export performance has deteriorated sharply. CNA Federmoda Toscana reports that regional fashion exports fell by around 20%, significantly worse than the national average decline of 6.8%.

The association also highlighted renewed growth in the use of wage-support schemes among artisan businesses. Between September 2025 and March 2026, the number of companies using support measures increased by 33%, while the number of workers involved rose by 16%.

Industry representatives are calling for renewed discussions with regional authorities and for measures aimed at supporting supply chains, preserving skills and improving the balance of responsibilities between brands and manufacturers.

Why it matters

Pitti Uomo remains one of Florence’s most important international events, attracting buyers, designers, journalists and industry professionals from around the world. Yet the contrast between the global visibility of the fair and the economic difficulties affecting many manufacturers and suppliers highlights the challenges currently facing both the Italian and Tuscan fashion industries.

For many businesses attending this week’s event, the hope will be that new international orders and market opportunities can help reverse a downturn that has increasingly affected production, exports and employment across the sector.

(Photo: Pitti 109 by AKAstudio-collective)

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